Dacor Dishwasher Error Codes From F1 to LC
Dacor dishwashers show either letter-number faults or two-letter check codes. This guide sorts them by what they report so you know which ones need a technician.
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Open a Dacor dishwasher that has stopped mid-cycle and the display may show F4, 5C, LC or something similar. Those symbols are not interchangeable. Older Epicure and Distinctive-generation units use F-numbers, while the newer Modernist and Heritage-style units use two-character check codes. The code page for each entry tells you which generation it belongs to, and that is worth confirming before you act on any meaning.
The two code styles
The F-series describes a fault the controller noticed. The check-series describes a self-check that did not pass. In practice both lead to the same place, a stopped cycle and a display message, but the meanings are organized differently, so keep them apart.
F-series faults
- F1 reports an inlet valve problem: no water was detected in the sump after the fill.
- F2 points to the circulation pump or drying fan, where the controller does not see the relay close on the power board.
- F3 is a heater fault, with no rise in water temperature during wash and rinse.
- F4 is a drain pump fault, where water is still in the sump after draining.
- F8 is a communication failure between the control and power boards, with a wet low-voltage connector named as the most common cause.
- F5, F6, F7 and F9 appear as labels for the airflow fan, controller or floor guard, EEPROM and the water level sensor. See F5, F6, F7 and F9 for what is and is not stated about each.
Check codes
- 3C is a pump operation check.
- 4C is a water supply check.
- 5C is a drain check.
- HC is a high-temperature heating check.
- LC is a leakage check where a leak was detected.
- PC is a zone wash function check.
One entry is not a fault at all. AP is a smartphone connection message shown while pairing the dishwasher with its app. If you only see it while setting up the app, leave the dishwasher alone.
Grouping codes by what they involve
When you are standing in front of a dead cycle, it helps to think in terms of three systems: water in, water out and electronics. F1 and 4C live on the fill side. F4 and 5C live on the drain side. F2, 3C and PC concern pumps and wash action. F3 and HC are about heat. F7 and F8 are about the boards. LC stands on its own because water leaving the tub is both a symptom and a cause.
Safe checks from the outside
- Write down the code before touching anything and note the point in the cycle where it showed up.
- For fill-side codes, confirm the water supply valve under the sink is open.
- For drain-side codes, look at the drain screen and sump area you can reach by pulling out the lower rack, and clear food debris you can lift out by hand. Check that the drain hose under the sink is not kinked.
- Close the door firmly and watch that the latch engages. A door that does not seat can stop a cycle.
- Do one controlled reset at the breaker. If the code returns, stop there.
Do not remove the kick plate or lower panel and do not touch connectors. A wet connector is the named cause of F8, and a damp, pulled-apart plug makes things worse.
Kitchen details that change what the code means
Most Dacor dishwashers are panel-ready, which means the door front matches cabinetry and the unit sits tight between neighboring cabinets. That setup is common in Bay Area remodels and it limits access: a technician may need to slide the dishwasher out, which depends on how the countertop was fastened and how the supply and drain lines were left. Drain loops and air gaps matter too. A kinked or poorly routed drain line behaves like a failing pump, so a drain code does not always end at the machine.
Reading a code together with the symptom
A code alone is thin evidence, and a symptom alone is vague. Together they narrow things quickly. A cycle that stops with water still in the tub and a drain-side code suggests the pump or the line after it. A cycle that never starts to fill and shows a fill-side code suggests the valve, the supply or the level sensing. Dishes that come out cold-washed and gritty with a heat code suggest the heating circuit. Tell the technician what the dishes and the tub looked like when you found the code, because that detail often saves a step.
When to stop using the dishwasher
Switch it off at the breaker if you see water pooling, smell something hot or burning, or notice the tub is not draining and the door is still locked on standing water. For LC or any code that mentions a leak, turn off the supply valve as well and keep the floor dry.
How we handle the visit
We diagnose before we repair. The technician reads the code with you, checks the circuit or water path it names, and explains the finding. You receive a written estimate and nothing is repaired without your approval.
Read about our work on Dacor dishwasher repair and browse the Dacor dishwashers lineup. Related symptom guides cover a Dacor dishwasher not draining and a Dacor dishwasher leaking. Owners with a specific unit may want the Dacor EDWH24S repair page or the Dacor DDW24M999UM repair page.
Frequently asked questions
The code page lists the generation each entry applies to. Epicure and Distinctive units show the F-series, while Modernist and Heritage-style units show the two-character check codes.
No. It is a smartphone connection mode message shown when the dishwasher is being paired with the app, not a fault.
Only after a single controlled power reset. If the code returns, further cycles just repeat the interruption and can leave more water in the tub.
No. The connector sits behind panels that should stay closed, and pulling a damp plug apart can damage it. Report the code and the technician will handle the connector.
Write it down exactly and send it with the model number when you book. The code library only lists meanings that apply to the stated models.
Tell us what’s wrong — we’ll take it from there
Share a few details and we’ll confirm an appointment. Prefer to talk? Call us and we’ll help right away.